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This is a blog about home canning—or "putting up" as one might say where I'm from—and it will cover jams and other fruit preserves, pickles and briny things, canned vegetables (above all tomatoes) and the complement of condiments that includes relishes, sauces, salsas and those related preparations that result when you chunk bits of seasonal produce and preserve them in a syrup either piquant or sweet.

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Sunday
Feb212010

What Is It?

You have one guess...

And you were right. It's a 10-liter copper preserving pan.

From Mauviel, a heritage company that manufactures copperwear near Mont Saint-Michel in Normandy.

I've wanted one since I first knew that such a thing existed, but have always found a good reason to avoid getting one. Like the price. And the extravagance of owning a pan designated for just one use. And the twee factor.

I hate "quaint" and its corollaries Old Fashioned, Olde Time and Old World. To me, home canning is a resolutely contemporary activity, and I find it distasteful and dishonest to market preserves with lies about Kountry Kitchens and Copper Kettles.

But the other day as I was working on a big double batch of BLOOD ORANGE MARMALADE, I started to think that maybe I should own a preserving pan. I've always loved tools and therefore have a weakness for the argument that an investment in good tools repays life-long dividends. I think you call that rationalizing desire.

When I posted about making BIG BATCH MARMALADE, reader Diana B zeroed in on my secret:

This is the best excuse I know of for buying one of those gorgeous copper confiture kettles with the huge surface area. C'mon, you know you want one...

I did!

I told Mathew about Diana B's comment. He suggested that I set a big goal for myself and then upon achieving it buy the preserving pan as a reward. Fair enough. I set the goal of finishing my book proposal.

Then Saturday evening, as I contemplated the 25 pounds of citrus in my kitchen and the amount of marmalade it represented, I realized I couldn't wait that long. I didn't just want a big preserving pan, I needed it.

I called my local Sur la Table. They had one in stock. I got it and yesterday put up 14 pints of marmalade. The pan is bee-yoo-tee-ful.

And the marmalade was just terrible. It may be a complete loss.

I will not, like the poor craftsman, blame my tools. The fiasco resulted entirely from my own poor judgment and Monsieur Mauviel shares no part of the blame. The best I can say is that I learned a lot from the experience. But what a sorry way to learn.

I tell you the whole story tomorrow.

Reader Comments (10)

A big copper stockpot.

February 21, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterRachel

That is one gorgeous, copper preserving pan! I am deeply jealous!

February 21, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterMarisa

My best guess is it's a Matfer Bourgeat Solid Copper Heavy Jam Pan. My wurst guess . . . a fifteen pound kielbasa?

February 21, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterSteve2 in LA

Chester Copperpot! The better to pickle you with my dear.

February 22, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterJimmy Cracked Corn

It's a cook's dream, neatly packed in a box! Jealous!!!!!

February 22, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterAmanda

Sorry about the marmalade loss, it is a true shame to have so much fruit go to the compost pile

February 22, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterWenchie

Oh I love it. Must start saving my pennies.

February 23, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterbrooke

How do you like your new copper pan? I've looked and looked at it. Like everyone else it's been to cost....was it worth it to you?

February 24, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterJane

Yeah, yeah, yeah, the pot is exquisite (I especially like the trees reflected on the pristine bottom)...but that 14-pint batch of marmalade is what I'm really curious about...how terrible is "just terrible?" Is it super-bitter? Were you using grapefruit? Did you go back after a few days and taste it afresh? Sometimes even a little age on marmalade smooths the corners.

Even your fiascoes, such as they are, help us all to succeed, and for that we are most grateful!

February 24, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterTom H.

this pot, my friend, is my secret weapon. and i am right there with you, i am not into antique-y, quaint, or ' country' kitcheny things - at all. But this jam pot is gorgeous and gets even more gorgeous with use. i love mine and i bet you will too! well done and enjoy! :)

February 28, 2010 | Unregistered Commentertigress

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