Last week at the Santa Monica Farmers Market, I heard from several citrus growers that the season is running early this year. Why? Who knows. But I started to wonder if maybe perhaps possibly the Seville oranges, usually a February fruit, would be ready already. So I went out to the hinterlands to my secret source, and, lo and behold, there was a boatload of new Seville oranges, leaves still attached. I bought 10 pounds to tide me over and today got busy in the marmalade factory with help from my new preserving intern, Alyssa. Next week I'll go back for 50 pounds more fruit. Check out the results soon at Lindy & Grundy in LA and Bien Cuit in New York. The label reads Strong Marmalade, because that's what it is. I love it.